Share on ThriftyFun This guide contains the following solutions. Have something to add? Please share your solution! Got bare spots in your lawn?
Get out and weed your garden. Save all the grass and transplant it in the lawn. Just scratch up the soil in the spot, put the grass in and water it. It fills in quickly and costs nothing.
By Jennifer from Butternuts, NY. Sooner or later, even the healthiest and most well-maintained lawn will probably need some minor repairs. Whether it's caused by insects, disease, over-use, or just a bout of bad weather, Bare fill it up i your lawn is suffering from thin spots and bare patches, spot seeding is a great way to repair and re-establish grass in small areas. Ad The Best Time Sow Early fall is often thought of as the preferred time for planting Bare fill it up i seed, because the conditions are best for getting grass off to a good start warm soil, ample moisture, and fewer sprouting weeds.
The best time to spot seed your lawn, however, is anytime your schedule and the weather allows you to. Just keep in mind that in extremely hot weather you'll need to really keep an eye on watering so the seed stays moist during germination.
In the early spring, cool soil temperatures may delay germination and the soil may be too wet to be easily worked. The Keys to Success Seed-to-soil Contact: To germinate, grass seed must have good contact with the soil. Moisture triggers the germination process. Too little, and the seeds will dry out and die between watering. Too much, and the seeds will suffocate from a lack of oxygen.
The ideal soil temperature for germination depends on the variety of grass seed you're planting. Cool season grasses require a minimum range of 45 to 55 F.
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Warm season grasses require a minimum range of 55 to 65 F. A single grass seed contains only enough food to carry out germination.
After that, the sprout must break through the surface of the soil to begin photosynthesis converting sunlight into food. Seeds planted too deep will run out of food before the sprouts reach the surface.
Different grasses germinate at different rates. Some will appear within a week, while others take up to two. Even among the same type of grasses there are always a few slow-poke seeds!
Patching Bare Spots Patching works Bare fill it up i in areas where the grass has completely died back. Use this technique to repair tire ruts along driveways, areas worn down by foot traffic or damaged by pets, or spots that have become bare as a results of insects or disease. Prepare the seed bed. Use a shovel to strip the area of any existing grass and weeds. If necessary, add organic matter and a few inches of weed-free topsoil to bring the bare spot up to the level of the surrounding soil.
Create a good seed bed by raking the soil until it's smooth and level. Ad Apply the seed. Use a seed type that is as close as possible to your existing grass. Sow the seeds thickly. This can be done using a drop spreader or by scattering the seed by hand. When you're done, most of the soil that was visible when you started should be covered by seeds.
Remember, not all of the seeds will germinate so don't be afraid to lean toward excess. To help the new grass blend in better with your existing grass, scatter some extra seed beyond the perimeter of the area you're trying to improve. To ensure good seed-to-soil contact, work the seeds into the soil by gently dragging a rake tines inverted across the top of the soil, tamping it lightly with your hand.
Be careful not to compact the soil. Dampen seeds daily until they germinate-twice daily during periods of extreme heat. After germination, your new grass should be given the equivalent of 1-inch of water per week. Water deeply rather than frequently to help establish deep roots. After about 6 weeks, you should be able to treat the area like an established lawn. Ad Overseeding Thin Areas Overseeding is a technique that works best in areas where your lawn appears thin.
Unlike patching, you won't be broadcasting the seed onto bare soil so this technique doesn't work well on lawns that contain heavy amounts of thatch. Start by pulling out any existing weeds. To make sure the seeds come into contact Bare fill it up i the soil, mow the existing grass as close to the ground as possible.
Scratch up the surface of the bare soil with a metal garden rake, being careful not to cause damage to your existing grass. Water thoroughly and continue to keep the soil evenly moist until germination. The roots of young grasses Bare fill it up i shallow and the blades soft and easily torn, so use sharp mower blades and be extra careful the first few times you mow.
If you have a mulch setting on your mower, "grasscycle" the clippings back onto the young grass. The clippings will act like a fertilizer while helping the soil retain moisture.
Reseeding bald spots in your lawn is easy to do and fall is the time to do it. Ask a Question Here are the questions asked by community members. Read on to see the answers provided by the ThriftyFun community or ask a new question.
Grass seed is too expensive, but I have bald spots in my lawn. What can I do that won't cost me any money? How about cutting turf patches from the edge of your garden?
Then replace the bald turf patches to the edge, or leave it open and plant flowers and plants taken from some wild area woods, plains, what ever you have locally Ad A good time to start a vegetable plot?
I suggest you dig up some of your lawn in the back yard, plant it in the bald spot, and keep damp. It should grow, good luck.
I don't know if this really works, but I am going to try it this spring. Lay some grass seed in the bare spot and lay used coffee grounds on top of it.
Nursery centers do sell small amounts of grass seed. You might bring a swatch of your existing grass so that a knowlegeable person could make sure the seed might match it. Dig into the soil and find out what might be the balding problem first.
If there are no white fat grub worms eating the roots, watch for cinch bugs. Ordinary earthworms are a good sign. Tiny firey red ants are harmless, slow, and help the soil aeration. If no sign of bugs of any kind, look at the blades of grass and the roots of the growing grass around it.
It could be nematodes. Smell of the soil in the bare spot. If you smell mold, you may have to replace the soil there.
If you smell gasoline or oil, you might have spilled it each time you refilled the mower over a time. Bare fill it up i the spots are perfectly round, you may have "fairy ring" Bare fill it up i, and need to spray for that.
If none of these things are your problem, simply plug each spot with a spade full of grass of the same size from a healthy spot, after hard raking the bald spot soil so the roots can attach themselves.
Cover the edges of the plug with some soil, a piece of newspaper for three days, after wetting well, and weight each corner with heavier rocks to prevent paper blowing away until the transplant takes off. This shades the new transplants while they are getting adjusted to their new location and not as likely to go into any sort of shock.
Do the spring transplanting in late afternoon rather than morning or noon.